Method of producing tucks o



2 Sheets Sheet 1.

(MOdeL) L. LOEB,Jr.

METHOD OF PRODUCING TUOKS 0N FABRICS.

Patented Apr. 1, 1890.

ATTORNEYS.

(Model.) 2 Sheets--Sheet 2.

L. LOEB, Jr. METHOD OF PRODUCING TUGKS ON FABRICS.

M Pafsented' Apr. 1 890. F1; .4. Ii

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UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE.

LOUIS LOEB, JR, OF RORSGHACH, SWITZERLAND.

METHOD OF PRODUCING TUCKS ON FABRICS:

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 424,682, dated April 1, 1890.

Application filed April 8, 1889. Renewed February 26, 1890. Serial No. 34=l,855x (Model-l To aZZ whom it may concern:

Be it known that I, LOUIS LOEB, Jr., a citizen of Germany, residing at Rorschach, Switzerland, have invented a new and Improved Method of Producing Tucks on Fabrics, of which the following is a full, clear, and exact description.

My invention relates to an improved method of producing tucks on fabrics used more particularly for ladies wear, such as muslin, cambric, woolens, silks, &c.; and the invention has for its object to produce on such fabrics tucks of straight, scalloped, angular, circular, or any other desired form or pattern without requiring the main fabric to be made longer or wider than the finished tucked piece, the tucks *being formed in a manner assuring safety against ripping by use or washing of the fabric.

The invention will first be described, and will then be particularly pointed out in the claims.

Reference is to be had to the accompanying drawings, forming a part of this specification, in which similar letters of reference indicate corresponding parts in all the figures.

Figure l is a front view of a piece of main embroidered fabricwith the applique pieces or strips of material placed behind it where the tucks are to be produced on the finished fabric. Fig. 2 is a vertical section thereof, taken on the line 00 x in Fig. 1. Fig. 3 is a vertical section showing the applique pieces or strips placed at the front or outer face of the main fabric. Fi 4 is afront View of the piece of embroidery with the main fabric and applique strips or pieces stitched together in the preferred manner by embroidering, and shows also a portion of each tuck completed or finished and the remainder of them but partly finished or with the front material between the lines of embroidering, stitch-connections, and the margins of the tucks but partly removed or cut away; and Fig. 5 is a vertical section taken on the line y 2 in Fig. 4.

The main fabric A, on which tucks of straight, angular, round, or curved general forms are to be produced, is or may be left entirely plain where the tucks are not to be produced on it, or this main fabric may be emln'oidered at a at such places not tucked and in any desired close or open work pat terns. The applique pieces or strips B, of which there may be any desired number, havin g any required width, are preferably placed at the back of the main fabric A, as shown in Figs. 1, 2, a, and 5 of the drawings; but these applique pieces of material may be placed at the outer or front face of the main fabric, as shown in Fig. 3 of the drawings. I will, however, more particularly describe the invention with special reference to the application of the strips or pieces 13 at the rear or back face of the main fabric, and which is the preferred mode of carrying out the improvement.

lVhether the main fabric A be embroidered at a or be left plain where the tucks are not to be produced 011 it, those portions of said fabric may be embroidered at those parts of it which afterward form the or tucksfor instance, at a, C0 and (1 within the marginal edges of the finished tucks, a representing a fiower-and-leaf pattern worked into the upper straight tuck, (6 representing series of dots worked into the upper angular tucks and lower scalloped tucks, and a representing a series of flower-patterns worked within the lower series of circular tucks nearer the bottom of the finished embroidered fabric. Onto the main fabric A will also be worked in embroidery the marginal outlines of the several tucks or the embroidery which will make a finish at the free edges of the tucks of the completed fabric. For instance,'the finelyscalloped line of embroidery c, worked on the fabric A, will afterward form the lower free edge or margin of the upper tuck O of the finished piece; the angularly-disposed lines of embroidery (Z, worked below the embroidery 0, will afterward form the marginal free edges of the series of angular inclined tucks D below the tucks O; the circular lines of scalloped embroidery e, worked around the embroidered patterns a, will afterward form the marginal free edges of the series of circular tucks E, and the wavy lines f of embroidery will afterward form the free margins of the series of large scalloped tucks F of t completed tucked fabric.

It will be remembered that all the abovenamed embroidery a, a a 0, (Z, c, and will. be made on or in the main fabric A before IOC the applique pieces or strips B are applied to it.

' G in Fig. 4 of the drawings. It will be noticed that the lines of stitches or embroidery G range straight and horizontally along the top, bottom, and central parts of the upper piece B, and along the top andbottom of the lower piece B, and at the upper angularly-disposed points of junction of theangular tucks D, and within the embroidery-circles e, and between them and the embroidery-patterns a and in scalloped configuration above the lower tucks F. These stitches or lines of embroidery G by passing through both fabrics A B securely unite them. After the two fabrics are thus joined allthe material of the outer main fabric A is cut away over the applique fabric B and next the embroidery a, (Z, c, and f and between the straight lines of embroidery or.stitching G, such portions to be cut away being indicated by the shaded parts a in Fig. 4 of the drawings. I cut away these parts a, preferably, by scissors, by which the fabric A is first slit along at the lines II between the stitches or embroidery G and the adjacent embroidery forming the free edges or margins of the tucks, and then the parts a of the fabric A will be cutaway or trimmed off by straight or curvedblade scissors close to the embroidery 0 cl 6 3 5 f, which forms the free margins or edges of the finished tucks, and close to the lines of stitches or embroidery G, next the free edges of the tucks, and the tucks then are complete.

It will be noticed that there are comparatively narrow portions a of the fabric A to be cut away next the free edge 0 of the tuck 0, next the free lower edges d of the angular tucks D, and neXt the free edge f of the sealloped tuck F, while above the angular tucks D, or at the spaces between their angular attacking-lines of stitches G and the straight line of stitches or embroidery G, separating said tucks D from the tuck 0, there are deeper portions a of the fabric A to be cut away, and the entire part a of this fabric between -the lines G G of stitches or embroidery above and below the circular tucks E and around their free edges or margins e is removed. The part a of the fabric A next the tuck O is shown but partly slit through at H, and the parts 0, next the angular tucks D and also around the circular tucks E are shown partly slit at H and partly removed or trimmed away, and where the fabric A is thus wholly removed the applique strips B form the finished face of the whole embroidered and tucked fabric, and by their connections with the main fabric A atthe lines G of stitches or embroidery they complete the continuity of the tucked fabric, which when finished is of the same length or width as the original main fabric A, to whiclrthe applique pieces'B'were attached. It is obvious that by this method of producing tucks 011 fabrics any number of tucks of any width or pattern may be provided without requiring the main ground fabric to be made wider than the finished tucked fabric, which facilitates the embroidering of the main fabric at minimum expense.

I may connect the two fabrics A B at the lines G by any style of stitches; but by making such connections by embroidering in any preferred style of stitches each line of connection of the two fabrics forms its own selvage and allows the closest trimming away of the parts a of the main fabric without danger of ripping or fraying of either fabric;

hence'the connections G by embroider-ing are preferred in practice and are specially claimed.

One or more of the underneath applique pieces B may be embroidered, so that should the outer or front tucks be raisedor lifted this embroidery may be visible; or this embroidery may be placed on the inner piece B in places ric or material, I will attach one or more additional applique pieces or stripsto the main fabric A, where the thicker tucks are to be produced, and I will work the embroidery-tuck patterns on the manifold fabrics,.so that when the applique piece B is applied at the back of these fabrics and is connected thereto by stitches or embroidery at G, and when all the material of these manifold fab rics is cut away or removed at a from in front of the applique piece B, the finished tucks will have two or more thicknesses, which will be securely held together as one piece by the embroidery which had been worked through the fabric A and the applique pieces which had been applied to it before the applique piece B had been attached. These embroidered tucks of two or more thicknesses would be stiifer, and for that reason would be desirable on many classes of goods.

Should the applique pieces B be connected at the front face of the main fabric A, as indicated in Fig.3 of the drawings, the embroidered patterns for the tucks will be worked onto the piece B instead of on'the fabric A, which may be embroidered or plain under the piece B, and the latter would be cut away around the lines of connection of the two fabrics and at the free margins, of the tucks, as will readily be understood.

Having thus described my invention,- what I claim as new, and desire to secure by Letters Patent, is

1. The herein-described method of producing tucks on fabrics, which consists in embroidering one fabric at places, afterward forming the free edge of the finished tuck, then connecting this fabric to another fabric at the place from which the tuck is to hang or project and at a place opposite said connection, and then removing the front material between the embroidery which forms the free edge of the finished tuck and the ad jacent line of connection of the two fabrics and between said lines of connection where they face each other, substantially as herein set forth.

2. The herein-described method of producing tucks on fabrics, which consists in embroidering the main fabric at places, afterward forming the free edge of the finished tuck, then placing at the back face of said fabric and where the tuck is to be produced thereon another piece or strip of material, then connecting the two fabrics together at the place from which the tuck is to hang or project and at a place opposite said connection, and then removing the main fabric between the embroidery which forms the free edge of the finished tuck and the adjacent line of connection of the two fabrics and between said lines of connection where they face each other, substantially as herein set forth.

3. The herein-described method of producing tucks on fabrics, which consists in embroidering one fabric at places, afterward forming the free edge of the finished tuck, and also at places within the marginal edge of said tuck, then connecting this fabric to another fabric at the place from which the tuck is to hang or project and at a place opposite said connection, and then removing the front material between the embroidery which forms the free edge of the tuck and the adjacent line of connection of the two fabrics and between said lines of connection where they face each other, substantially as herein set forth.

LOUIS LOEB, JR.

Witnesses:

HENRY L. Goonwrn, On SEDcwIcK. 

